Yereruyk Basilica in Armenia: Ruined but still holding some magic

Trip to Yereruyk (Yererouk) Basilica was one of the most thrilling ones in my life. This Basilica is located close to the Armenian-Turkish border, so close that the visitors can cast a look into Turkey, or better to say historic Western Armenia.

The name of the Basilica — Yereruyk is said to come from the word “երերալ,” which is translated as “sway” into English. It is said that back in the ancient times, when the Basilica was in its full swing it seemed to sway from afar, and that is why it was named so. Another explanation is that lamb or rooster sacrifices (known as matagh in Armenian) were performed there — they were put on a tray and swayed above the altar. I prefer to stick to the first explanation.

Brief history of the Basilica — Yereruyk is regarded as one of the oldest churches in Armenia. It dates to the 4th-5th centuries. Considering that Armenians adopted Christianity in 301 (and they are the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion), that is in the fourth century, then it’s obviously not only one of the oldest Christian churches in Armenia, but also one of the first ones. The Basilica is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. It is noteworthy that excavations have revealed many newborns were buried there. A hypothesis is that newborns who had not been baptized were buried there.

Photo by Ani Babayan

Those who have been to Armenian churches have beyond doubt seen that they are absolutely different from other churches around the world, which tend to boast of luxury. Armenian churches usually “boast” of frugality. In this regard, they lack excessive decorations. But what catches the eye in case of this Basilica are the large stairs not typical of Armenian churches. They are a hint that this Basilica was built on a pagan temple the stairs of which were preserved for the church.

The road to the Basilica — Yereruyk is located in the rural community of Anipemza, on the left bank of River Akhuryan in the province of Shirak. It will take less than three hours to get to the Basilica from Yerevan. Located close to the border it stands desolate and its ruined state makes it appear lonesome. As you get closer to the Basilica, the road gets worse, therefore as in case of Lake Parz , traveling there by Jeep or by a car that you would not care to “have damaged” is highly recommended.

The people around/villages — You won’t get to see many people there. The Basilica seems to be located between two villages and not in a particular village, at least it’s the impression I got. There are no toilets close by so there is one option — to ask one of local residents for permission to use theirs. Strange is it can seem, people here were more than friendly, without any objection to our request to use their toilet. A sister of mine, who took advantage of it, told me that the house she went to looked dull and old on the outside, but it was more than well-furnished and renovated on the inside, perhaps it has to do with the fact of its being located on the border.

Lastly, this trip is breathtaking not only because of the beautiful views and the greatness of the nature, but because it brings you a step closer to what was once Armenia and today is part of Turkey — a fact Armenians cannot make themselves accept.